I wouldn’t call myself a daredevil.
I take risks sometimes, sure. But did I ever think I’d be riding on the back of a motorbike in the middle of nowhere on terrifyingly winding roads?
Never.
But funny things happen when you go to Southeast Asia. You become braver. You take more risks. You’re more… free.
When I was doing research about Vietnam, I read about how gorgeous the north is. More specifically, how breathtaking the province of Ha Giang (pronounced Ha-Zang) is.
Obviously I had never heard of Ha Giang before. But after googling it and staring at the images on my screen in awe, I knew right then and there I’d have to go.
And then I did more research about the area and that’s when I learned about the Ha Giang loop.
If you’re thinking about doing the Ha Giang loop and you’re on the fence, I’m here to convince you that it will be one of the greatest adventures of your life.
Getting to Ha Giang
Although getting to Ha Giang isn’t as easy as reaching other parts of Northern Vietnam such as Sa Pa, it’s still very doable.
The easiest way is to get there by sleeper bus from Hanoi‘s My Dinh station.
It’ll cost 200,000 VND and it will take roughly 7 hours.
Renting a motorbike
Renting a motorbike in Ha Giang is very easy. There are bike shops everywhere, and they are very cheap.
However, if you want to talk to experienced locals who will explain the Ha Giang loop to you and who will offer you a detailed map, then I recommend renting your bike from QT Motorbikes and Tours.
If you have a big backpack or a suitcase, they will keep it for you so you can ride comfortably with just your travel backpack.
They show you how to safely strap it onto your motorbike so it doesn’t fly off while you’re riding.
Don’t worry – they are very trustworthy.
My husband and I left most of our belongings with them and rode out with one backpack and everything was as-is upon our return.
QT only rents out manual or semi-automatic bikes.
They told us that fully automatic bikes are dangerous in mountainous regions like Ha Giang, so it’s better to go with a semi-automatic or fully manual one to allow for engine braking.
Their bikes range from 200,000 VND to 600,00 VND per day. They also offer full insurance coverage for 100,000 VND per day.
What to wear
There is one main rule.
Do NOT ride out in flip-flops like I did when we first did the loop two years ago.
Any number of things could have gone wrong, and I was not protected.
We had one minor accident last time we did the loop. We got some cuts here and there, but it could have been way worse, especially since the only thing protecting us were our helmets.
We got lucky.
We were better prepared this time, though. Chris and I wore running shoes, pants, and rain jackets (it can rain at any time without warning).
QT Motorbikes and Tours also offers knee and elbow pads for rent for an extra fee if you want to be even more cautious.
If you’re riding while it’s hot and sunny out, you’ll have to apply sunscreen every 2-3 hours.
If you do the Ha Giang motorbike tour during the colder months (December-March), you’ll need long sleeves, a windbreaker, and pants.
Oh, and one more thing you need to bring along…
A FIRST AID KIT.
We needed to use it when we fell off our bike the first time we did the loop, and our friend who was riding with us the second time needed it when he fell of his bike.
For more information on what to include in your travel-size first aid kit, check out my post on Southeast Asia Packing List for Traveling Light.
3 or 4-day Ha Giang loop tour
If you’re short on time and can’t do the full 4-day tour, you can do the shorter 3-day (2-night) tour instead.
We did the 3-day tour last time we were here, and we had a blast.
We took our time this time around and completed the loop in 4 days instead, staying one extra night in Yen Minh.
The map below will show you the 3-day Ha Giang loop and the overnight stops along the way.
Basically, you’ll stop in Du Gia the first night, in Dong Van the second night, and you’ll loop back to Ha Giang on your third day.
If you want to take it easy, you can stop in Du Gia the first night, in Meo Vac or Dong Van the second night, in Yen Minh the third night, and loop back to Ha Giang on your last day.
Don’t be fooled by how short the routes look on the map.
You’ll actually be riding about 6-7 hours a day to get to each destination, and even longer on the last day to get back.
You should never ride after sunset – it’s way too dangerous and there are no lights to guide you.
You should start early each morning (no later than 10am) to give you plenty of time to reach your destination.
Good luck to your butt – especially if you’re riding as a passenger.
The most stunning viewpoints
There are two viewpoints you cannot miss: Heaven Gate and Ma Pi Leng Pass.
Heaven Gate is in Quan Ba and you can either stop on your first day on your way to Du Gia, or on your way back to Ha Giang on your last day.
When we got there on the first day, it was completely foggy and we weren’t able to see two feet in front of us. So we went back on our last day and the weather was perfect.
Ma Pi Leng Pass will be on your second day.
It’s about 30 minutes past the quaint village of Meo Vac (which is worth stopping by for lunch).
It is the most stunning view of the entire loop, and I can say with confidence that I’ve never seen a better view in all my travels.
The Ma Pi Leng Pass alone makes the entire loop worth it.
Both these viewpoints can be found on Google Maps.
Where to stay
If you rent your bike from QT, they will give you advice on where you can stay on your way.
We stayed with Anh Khuy’s family at Khuy Du Gia Homestay on our first night in Du Gia (pronounced Zu-Za) back in 2017, and again in 2019.
We had such a good time at Anh’s homestay, and they cooked up a delicious feast for us for dinner (plus a LOT of homemade rice wine).
If you’re stopping in Meo Vac, you can stay at Ong Vang Meo Vac Hotel. It offers adorable hobbit-style homes for about $10.
If you’re stopping in Dong Van, you can stay at Green Karst Hostel & Bar.
If you’re stopping in Yen Minh, you can stay at Bong Bang Homestay. The food was great (served family-style) and they offered plenty of corn wine.
A word of caution
The Ha Giang motorbike loop was an experience I will never forget.
It was so incredible that we decided to do it twice, two years apart.
But there’s something I need to make very clear…
Do not attempt to do the Ha Giang motorbike loop if you’ve never ridden a motorcycle in SE Asia before.
It’s one of the hardest and most dangerous loops in this part of the world, and it’s no joke.
The roads are narrow, winding, sometimes unpaved, and so close to the edge of the mountain.
Buses and trucks plough through these roads in very high speeds without caring who else might be on the road.
No matter how careful and vigilant you are, the drivers in the north are careless and unpredictable.
So, again, if this is your first time riding in SE Asia (or first time riding ever), do NOT attempt the loop.
If you’re an experienced rider who has dealt with SE Asian drivers before, then I highly recommend it because it will be the adventure of a lifetime.
Final thoughts
Leaving Ha Giang was a sad moment for me (both times!).
I had one of the biggest adventures of my life there, and it has given me memories I’ll never forget.
I can’t even describe how gorgeous Ha Giang is – the mountains, the valleys, the rivers, the rice fields.
My pictures don’t do it justice. Not even close.
If you end up doing the Ha Giang motorbike tour, please let me know in the comments below.
I’d love to hear about your experience and I’m happy to answer any questions you may have.
Good luck and be safe!
